Wednesday, 30 September 2009

A to X

Generation A - X, Douglas Coupland
The Generation gap

In 1991 Douglas Coupland wrote Generation X and captured the zeitgeist perfectly, and now 18 years later he delivers Generation A.

As well as looking forward to having a good read, it's interesting comparing the two covers designed almost two decades apart.

Monday, 28 September 2009


Kapital K

Went for a run this evening - it nearly killed me.

ps: note to self - don't run with mouth open. I inhaled a small cloud of midges and that nearly killed me too!

Friday, 25 September 2009


Mick Fanning roundhouse cutback
Now that's what I call a Roundhouse Cutback

Sequence of Mick Fanning clearly demonstrating a full-bore frontside roundhouse cutback, I reckon Curren probably does 'em with even more style, but this birds-eye-view shows that Fanning certainly knows how to bleed some speed.

Thursday, 24 September 2009


triangulate in the surf
Get your line ups sorted...

As the September swells start to roll through and Autumn brings more motion to the ocean remember to triangulate out there.

Wednesday, 23 September 2009


The Surfers-On the rocks
Never heard of 'em, but I think I'd like this album

Old record covers are great - there's a wealth of visual gold out there. 1950s group The Surfers got nicely co-ordinated for this one above.

There was also another band in 1998 calling themselves The Surfers, (below) the guys in this combo were also quite good at actually surfing (Slater, Machado, PK...)

The Surfers-Music from the Pipe

This one looks interesting...

Monday, 21 September 2009


Tuesday post it note
... nice day for it

Funny old day, not a lot going for it in some ways - but then I thought about it again and I realised - it's always someones birthday, it could be the best day of somebodys life and it's named after a mythological god! What a day...

Friday, 18 September 2009


Sunset Porthtowan
Autumn sunset

Snapped this after a quick surf last night - trying to make the most of the light evenings...

Monday, 14 September 2009


Godrevy Lighthouse
An old friend


Fresh wax
Old board - new wax

Surfboards are very low maintenance, the occasional ding repair, a fresh coat of wax and you're up and running again…

Friday, 11 September 2009


Estimates suggest 80% of Westerners live in suburbia

For years I've fantasised over pics of pristine Malibu or perfect Kirra, however a little 'Google earthing' reveals that the view from the lineup is actually one of suburban sprawl. It amazed me just how suburban the surf destinations of California and East Coast Australia really are.
I still like to think of the coast as a kind of mellow wilderness area, yet statistically a hell of a lot of surfing is actually being done in Suburbia.

Thursday, 10 September 2009

MURIAL - Did you mean to search for Mural

lahinch mural
Hold yer line son!

West coast of Ireland, three years ago to the day.


Lookin back...

My favourite type of view

Wednesday, 9 September 2009

Tuesday, 8 September 2009


hula doll
He's always a happy chappy

This is Bruddah Eddie - he moved over from Hawaii to Kernow a few years ago to live at our place. He's an inspiration, especially at this time of year as our summer begins to fade. He never moans about the weather, always smiling, always happy to be here.

Monday, 7 September 2009


karl malden
Crunched my nose at G-bay tonight.

Hi-ho, hi-ho, off to the glassers we go...

Sunday, 6 September 2009



clouds washed by fire
gold sky above sea below
a day a lifetime

Saturday, 5 September 2009



I have to say that I believe surfing is totally pointless* and I have spent countless hours in the pursuit of riding waves. Probably adding up to a few thousand hours of my life. Could all that time have been spent doing something more productive?

I don't regret a minute of it!

*which is why I love it.

Friday, 4 September 2009


Fluid Juice surfboard
Yellow (not mellow)

The phrase "mellow yellow" appears in the first American edition of Ulysses, where it is used to refer to Mrs. Marion Bloom's buttocks... I can't stand the Donovan song of the same name. Neither am I fan of Coldplay. But I do really like yellow boards. This is my 6'8" shaped by Adrian Phillips back in 2004.

Thursday, 3 September 2009


The best place to shelter from the rain

I really like surfing in the rain, I love the fresh, clean feeling of the raindrops compared to the briney sea. I like the effect the rain has on the surface of the waves... But you can have too much of a good thing, I want a little bit more summery surfage before the clocks go back.