Monday, 23 April 2012


Books about surfing are a small but burgeoning genre, originally consisting of mainly instructional and location guides, it has now expanded to include autobiographies, fiction, historical record and even encyclopedia. I love to read and really love reading about surfing, here are the current Top 10 surf books from my little surf library.

1. MP, The life of Michael Peterson by Sean Doherty


MP recently passed and was honoured around the world, nowhere more so than in Australia, where he has long been regarded as a surfing legend. Former Tracks editor and proud Australian, Sean Doherty used his trusted access to friends and family of MP, along with many interviews with the man himself to produce a detailed and cohesive account of MP's life. Pulling no punches he describes Peterson's dazzling superiority in the famed Gold Coast breaks of Kirra and Snapper, but doesn't gloss over some of his less exemplary behaviour either. Good writing is always easy to read and this biography flows free and easy to reveal the man behind the legend. Easily a contender for best surf book.

2. Eddie would go by Stuart Holmes Coleman

Eddie would go.

The story of Eddie Aikau is a richly coloured account not only of the Aikau family, but of a time when Hawaiian surfers were being forced to adjust to the worldwide commercial interest being focused on the North Shore. Recognised for his cool command of the huge waves at Waimea, and also for his aloha spirit, this book tells the tale of Eddie’s rise through the pro surfing ranks and his ultimate sacrifice and the subsequent coining of the legendary phrase - Eddie would go. A great read if you’re interested in Hawaiian surf history as well as being a vibrant biography of an enduringly soulful character.

3. All for a few perfect waves by David Rensin

All for a few perfect waves.

Mickey Dora is surely regarded as the ultimate rebel icon of surfing, a role he seemed to relish and despise all at the same time. With direct access to Dora and along with many supporting interviews from friends and family, Rensin does an heroic job of chronicling the events that created the myth. Dora himself is as slippery and elusive with the facts as he was when he was cutting a line through the crowds at Malibu. But in recalling a prolonged odyssey that took him around the world searching for the perfect wave he drops his guard occasionally allowing Rensin to paint possibly the truest portrait of Miklos Dora we could expect.

Wednesday, 18 April 2012


Depends on the question...

I often come across people describing how they have found themselves through surfing, of how riding the waves has given them spiritual nourishment.

I like their positive spin and the attempt to align the physical with the metaphysical. Actually, I'm pretty sure I might have found myself saying something similar not long after I first started surfing.

But I don't feel like that anymore. Let's face it, surfing is a fool's game in many ways, it's pointless, selfish and anti-social. It doesn't achieve anything in particular, it's erratic at best, sometimes frustrating and increasingly over-subscribed.

Surfing certainly doesn't give me any answers, in fact quite the opposite, I find it asks a lot of questions of me.

Thursday, 12 April 2012



Brew of choice.

The amazing Adrenalin Parc near Moliets. Highly recommended.

Iconic Biarritz. This was like a magic spot for us, even when the forecast was flat, there would be a ripple here that would turn into a decent loggable right as the tide filled in.

BRTZ right. Fun waves here that would peel for ages.