Wednesday, 18 April 2012


Depends on the question...

I often come across people describing how they have found themselves through surfing, of how riding the waves has given them spiritual nourishment.

I like their positive spin and the attempt to align the physical with the metaphysical. Actually, I'm pretty sure I might have found myself saying something similar not long after I first started surfing.

But I don't feel like that anymore. Let's face it, surfing is a fool's game in many ways, it's pointless, selfish and anti-social. It doesn't achieve anything in particular, it's erratic at best, sometimes frustrating and increasingly over-subscribed.

Surfing certainly doesn't give me any answers, in fact quite the opposite, I find it asks a lot of questions of me.

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