Tuesday, 18 August 2015

Sunday, 16 August 2015


I went for an early one today. Couple of feet, clean, virtually no wind apart from a very light offshore. It was lovely.

A handful of old guys on mals (I guess that includes me) were taking turns on some nice lefts. I took off on a soft-ish one and a much older guy dropped in on me down the line.

It was fine though, a wave of no consequence, he apologised and I told him not to worry about it.

Over the next 20 minutes the waves got a little better, another foot or so in size and a bit steeper as they jacked up over the mid-tide banks.

I swung into a really nice left, a chest high drop with a smooth wall that stayed open as I came off the bottom.

But, lo and behold, my older friend had decided that he liked the look of this one too and dropped in a few yards ahead of me. It was kind of ok, he pulled down a bit of a section but the wave had enough juice in it to keep going and we managed a bit of a 'doubles' routine, cutting back and forth in front of each other as we cruised along to the shorebreak.

He was stoked; "Nothing wrong with that one!" he yelled at me as we paddled back out to the line up.

He was right there was nothing wrong with the wave. Apart from the fact that he'd dropped in on me, again... But, so what. We'd both had a good ride and shared a really nice wave, the lesson I learnt was that maybe sharing is caring, even when the choice is not your own.

Nothing wrong with that one, indeed.