Just been given these old snaps of the much younger me skating the bowl at Playing Place. This was in the days before Patrick Best and Andrew Garner built the infamous extension, so I'm guessing it's either 77 or 78. On a Dogown Red Dog - Jim Muir, looks like Trackers, Green Kryps and a home-made tail saver.
Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!
What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...
Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.
Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.
Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.
Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.
Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.
One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in. Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.
Chris Hines with his trusty 7'2. Photo: Andy Hughes
Journalist, campaigner, environmentalist, media presenter, motivational speaker, inspirational thinker and of-course, last but definitely not least, surfer. Chris's love affair with the sea has taken him from being more than just a participant to dedicating his life to making not only the ocean, but the environment as a whole something we can all enjoy for many generations to come.
When did you become aware of surfing?
My folks first took me to Widemouth when I was a couple of months old. Earliest memories are from when I was about 4/5 and I had my own wooden bellyboard by age 6! First proper board aged 12. There was a great surfing book in Tavistock School library and I used to always read it in library session!
Can you remember catching your first green wave?
Think my first green wave was during an epic 5 hour session when I was 13 at Sennen. Just pushing out and catching small inside waves and one suddenly reformed...
I know you try and get in the water as much as possible, just what exactly is it that keeps you coming back for more?
Being in the water, one decent wave and it's been a good session. That interaction with natural energy and the environment. Being away from the pressure of normal life. Importantly, every day has something and even if it's not great surf then remember that you could be a member of the Bosnian surf team at which point 2 ft onshore mush would be the best day of the decade!
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