Thursday, 13 May 2010



Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!

What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...

Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.

Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.

Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.

Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.

Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.

One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in.
Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.

Based on a true story.


  1. That's my kind of math, brother.

  2. more like 1.5ft at 6 secs,wind north east 23 mph,no-one in,another wasted journey,back home for wall building of the earth stone variety and another day of dreaming,maybe a quick carve round playing place will stem the growing frustration.FRIGGING HIGH PRESSURES.