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Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!
What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...
Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.
Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.
Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.
Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.
Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.
One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in.
Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.
Based on a true story.
That's my kind of math, brother.
ReplyDeletemore like 1.5ft at 6 secs,wind north east 23 mph,no-one in,another wasted journey,back home for wall building of the earth stone variety and another day of dreaming,maybe a quick carve round playing place will stem the growing frustration.FRIGGING HIGH PRESSURES.
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