Thursday, 30 December 2010


Live forever.

A fortune teller, a bounty hunter. Always looking, always anticipating, trying to predict.

A wave is something already begun but yet to come. Search the horizon. Will it be mine? It could be mine, I want it, I need it. A moment from time rolling towards the future, to its end, to its conclusion. Sometimes shyly, almost unseen. Sometimes ominous, dark and powerful.

Can I be where it reveals itself, can I be there? Over there. Yes, this could be it. I've waited all my life it seems for this. The meeting of moments. The coming together, the birth or maybe a death. Not birth for the wave, for it was born long ago. So, a new birth for me whilst I hitch a ride on the back of death, ride the death throes of the wave.

I join the wave. The past and the future become the present. The mental and the physical are dancing in liquid. A birth, a life, a death. And I want to do it all again, and again, and again for ever.

Thursday, 23 December 2010


To you one and all.

Wednesday, 22 December 2010


Flat today.

But swell on the way hopefully...

Sunday, 19 December 2010


Detroit by David Byrne.

The amazing David Byrne Journal is always well worth a visit. This is a typical account from a visit he makes to Detroit.

Friday, 17 December 2010


A few more pixels from the hard-drive archive.



Tech Deck Sesh.

Frozen water.

Dog fob - no eyes.

Exit strategy.

Breakfast of champions.

Beloved north coast.

Wednesday, 15 December 2010


Lost a leg...

But he still rips!

Tuesday, 14 December 2010


Ginger & Honey Tea.

I think I'm addicted to this stuff, I find myself glugging down at least a cup every night. Packs quite a punch and I'm convinced it wards off evil. Rubbish pack design, but does the job.

What's it got to do with surfing? Well DL introduced it as a winter apres-surf must-have last year and let me tell you it certainly delivers!

Friday, 10 December 2010


surf jumble
Surf Jumble in Bude this weekend - might be a good place to find that quirky Xmas prezzy...

Thursday, 9 December 2010


That's why they call it the Pipeline.

There's a whole world of waves out there, and amazingly still more are being discovered every year. But Pipeline still grabs my attention. Ridden well by relatively few, despite being fairly accessible (ie; just a few yards from a public beach) and widely documented, it certainly can't be underestimated.

Personally, I just can't get enough of views like this. I can only imagine how it would feel to be in position and committing to a drop like this, on my backhand too! (dream on...)
Photo: djstruntz

Tuesday, 7 December 2010


Most of the time I'm kicking a pair of Vans...

For at least half of the year - it's flip-flops...

And then in the winter I stomp around in some good ole Blundstones.

[My feet are actually quite big in real life]

Monday, 6 December 2010


solid ice
The bucket where I normally rinse out my wetsuit.

After a brief thaw on Sunday, we're back to zero again this morning...

Friday, 3 December 2010

Thursday, 2 December 2010


Temps haven't risen above zero for 6 days now.

Wednesday, 1 December 2010


Whichever way you are going you are going wrong.

Many moons ago, when I had endless time on my hands and a pocketful of loose change I came across an album in a record shop and just bought it on a whim. I used to do that a lot - sometimes it turned out to be ok, more often than not it didn't. But this time I struck lucky - a quirky, organic & atmospheric collection that often kept me company late into the night.

There wasn't much info on the sleeve about who WOO were, apart from the names Mark & Clive Ives and I never really followed it up at the time and certainly haven't come across them very often since.

But a recent post by Cabinessence reminded me of how much I enjoyed discovering their album and sent me off in search of the Brothers Ives again.