Wednesday, 14 March 2012


Smiling - an antidote to tussery.

Today there was a situation that mirrored the recent tussage incident but the outcome could not have been more different.

With the advantage of some flexi-time I had a couple of free hours and really wanted to get wet. I hooked up with D and we hit Godrevy for a quick sesh.

With only a handful out on the middle peak we opted to try the rights in the north corner, but a big tide was draining fast and dragging a rip through the waves. So we decided to paddle 100 metres across to the middle peak where some tasty waves were jacking up and peeling perfectly both left and right. The tide had dropped to expose the mid-tide banks and a fresh swell was just starting to fill in. The always-friendly Dave Barnwell was out getting a few and it was starting to look really good!

We got out to the peak during a lull between sets with 3 other guys already sitting outside. Almost immediately an overhead set started pulsing through. D found himself right in the perfect spot under the peak. Dave was already on the shoulder with D being slightly deeper, but as we were last to arrive in the line-up and not wanting to be seen as a snake he offered the wave to Dave.

‘No you go, there’ll be plenty more’ said Dave with his customary grin, and D dropped down into an absolute screamer that had him flying across the beach. As predicted we all got a wave each from the rest of the set. And when we’d all paddled back out to the peak, Dave was equally as stoked to see one of the ‘waves of the day’ being enjoyed, as D was to have caught it!

And sure enough there were plenty more waves on offer...

What a contrast to the same position I’d been in a week ago when Tuss had glared bitterly as I caught a set wave. Yet today D and Dave had doubled their stoke factor by simply acknowledging and respecting each other and sharing the waves.

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