 |
Quite easy then, to understand why I'm so addicted to splashing about in the stuff. Not only am I in my element, but the H2O element is mostly in me as well.
One of my favourite breaks locally is a a particular high tide wave that under certain conditions offers up a beautiful little left that spins perfectly across a rivermouth. The swell rolls in, jacks up and then peels swiftly across the bank leaving the door open all the way for sweet slotted fun. Although it would be hard to prove, I'm convinced there's a special quality to the water here as the fresh river water merges with the saltwater. It is after all where the waters meet.
Funnily enough one of my watery pleasures is surfing in the rain. I've always loved it. The puttering of the rain drops, the freshwater drizzling down my face, the unique pockmarking texture of the surface as it seems to boil and then flatten beneath the drumming of the raindrops. Always one of my happy aquatical moments.
Oh, and as if that wasn't enough, the last thing the back cracker said to me as I left his surgery last week was, "Drink more water!"
No comments:
Post a Comment