SOUL OR SOLE

I've been reading a lot recently about how surfing has many health benefits, both physical and mental. This struck a chord with me. 

Albeit a discordant one. Because I've also read about surfing being a spiritual, soulful pursuit. I've read about surfers being 'at one with nature' and finding deeper meaning within the act of surfing. Recently I listened to a podcast where some surfers were claiming that they remained childlike and curious purely because they were surfers.

To me this is all bullshit! Yes, surfing is fantastic and fun and physically satisfying. But to claim it somehow also rewards with elevated consciousness and superior awareness is bonkers. Why can't riding a bike or playing a round of golf* make us appreciate nature and our place in it? Why would surfing be exclusively the only activity to exercise both mind and body?

I surf because it's fun. I live near the coast and I've done it since I was a teenager. Yes, it often helps me switch off from work and reduce the daily noise & I enjoy the challenge and exhilaration of being in the sea. But I honestly doubt that it makes me a better person. In fact it probably does the opposite. Surfing involves way too much ego and selfishness to encourage spiritual development.

If I really want to do something that helps my physical and mental health I go for a run. It's incredibly simple - the only essential equipment is a pair of trainers (don't even have to be expensive). Some shorts and a t-shirt will complete the set-up. Step out of the house, and head off. 

Very soon I strike a rhythm, one foot in front of the other. A regular pace and quite quickly my mind quietens. I'm not competing with anybody for this space. I'm certainly not trying to impress anyone with my steady plodding. 

During a year of semi-regular runs I noticed that random thoughts would click into place and ideas form and solidify with ease. This was a revelation to me. Somehow the act of tuning out and following the repetitive pattern of my feet on the ground actually cleared my head. 

To me this is meditation. And I'll go so far as to say that a quiet run can be a lot more soulful than trying to catch a wave.

*I personally have no interest or desire to play golf, but can easily imagine that it has massive benefits for those that enjoy it.

MY KARMIC LEATHER JACKET

 

This photo of me taken by Paul 'Milo' Milsom is from the early 90s maybe some time around 1991ish.
 

Milo was staying with me in Falmouth, we spent the weekend skating Crantock, St Newlyn East and almost definitely Playing Place too. In the evening we did a little curb scratching and ended up at a party with ‘lots of garlic’ according to Milo. I actually don’t remember the garlic part. 

I do remember that leather jacket though. 

I had worked previously at Skateboard! magazine in London. The publisher also produced a couple of motorcycle titles from the same offices. They were a cool bunch and the mix of skateboarders and bikers actually worked just fine. 

I would cycle to and from work across London and one night when I went to leave it was pissing rain and freezing cold. One of the biker journos, guy called Rick lent me a leather jacket he had lying around in his office as I only had a hoody over my tshirt for protection. 

Fuck, that thing felt so good! Fitted perfectly, was hefty but sort of loose in a cool way. The leather had a beautiful authentic patina that only comes with true wear and tear. The weight of it alone was enough to let you know you were shouldering something substantial… I don’t think I even owned a coat at the time, maybe just a sketchy charity-shop anorak. So this was a revelation to me, I was hooked - that jacket was awesome.

The next day I left it at home to dry as it had got soaked on the previous night’s ride home. Back in the office I asked Rick if I could keep it as I knew he didn’t wear it often, in fact I’d never seen him wearing it at all. In the same way that we got freebies on the skate mag, the biker journos always had fresh gear; jackets, gloves, helmets, boots etc. Perks of the job. And I knew that he was particularly taken with a new Italian leather jacket he’d been swanning around in for the last month or so. He didn’t exactly say no. Mainly cuz I was pestering him so hard to let me keep it by guilt-tripping him into passing it on to me, knowing for a fact he got it as a freebie himself and didn’t wear it. I think he would have preferred me to shut up about it and take the hint that he would rather keep it than give it to some annoying skater. I let it pass, but importantly the jacket was in my possession.

I took to wearing it all the time as if it was in fact my jacket, and whenever I passed Rick in the hall he would jokily threaten that he wanted it back. And I would equally jokily respond ‘Yeah, yeah - one of these days..” Like I said, those biker guys were cool. 

I was not cool though, because I basically re-assigned ownership of that jacket from Rick to me right in front of his face. What a shit move.

After a year or so, it just became mine... I figured it was like squatters rights - if you live in it long enough then it becomes yours.

Eventually the magazine gig came to an end and I moved on. Which is around exactly the time that the above photo was taken of me wearing ‘my leather jacket’ back in Cornwall. Well needless to say Karma caught up with me because also not too long after the pic was taken, so was the jacket.

Stolen. Out one night somewhere, placed it on the back of a chair, closing time comes around and with it the realisation that the jacket has gone. I was gutted but I also knew justice had been served. I’d been sneaky taking that jacket from Rick and it was inevitable that it would be taken from me in the same manner. Full circle karma baby!

VIRUS

A small blue planet spinning through space. 

Whether by devine plan or random chance, this particular planet has exactly the right atmosphere and environment to sustain life. It has well-established lunar and seasonal cycles. A sturdy ecosystem combined with steady climate and temperatures. Plentiful water and a balance of natural resources and a thriving population with the intelligence & potential to maintain peaceful existence. 

At times the dominant occupants (humans) have displayed both extreme courage and creativity as well as staggering selfishness and stupidity. But overall they have achieved a universal balancing act designed to preserve harmony. 

Then a virus emerges that attacks all the humans on the small blue planet regardless of racial, social or economic background. It is indiscriminate, highly infectious and incredibly deadly. Very quickly it threatens the continuing existence of the entire human population of the small blue planet. 

The situation is blindingly clear - the virus must be eliminated or suppressed globally. To try and protect only a percentage of the total population will be a waste of time and effort. The virus is too infectious, too easily spread, too efficiently lethal for scattered piecemeal solutions. In simple terms the entire planet must work together for its own survival. 

But this particular world has survived countless wars, conflicts and natural disasters so it has plenty of experience in how to overcome and manage such catastrophes surely? Faced with such a threat it could easily unify to ensure its own safety and future. 

Although there are huge discrepancies between the wealth of the various countries, the rich nations could comfortably support those from poorer continents. Luckily the small blue planet has learnt some important lessons from its shared history and has gone some way towards planning for widespread danger. It has agreed on international treaties, created worldwide authorities and global coalitions precisely to try and eliminate such a threat. 

In fact, for example just a handful of staggeringly rich individuals from one part of the planet (America) could fund enough vaccines for millions of impoverished people across the whole of the planet. 

The situation is dire and extremely urgent, possibly the most important threat the small blue planet has ever faced. 

We watch as this virus slowly spreads, mutates and continues its steady, deadly assault on the people of the small blue planet. Shockingly they are stagnant. Unable to muster a shared purpose, instead they bicker amongst themselves. Waste time prevaricating, endlessly arguing and making excuses. Waiting, waiting..

The question is not when will they come up with a cohesive, unified plan to help every single global citizen and therefore ensure their future. 

But why haven’t they?