I've been reading a lot recently about how surfing has many health benefits, both physical and mental. This struck a chord with me.
Albeit a discordant one. Because I've also read about surfing being a spiritual, soulful pursuit. I've read about surfers being 'at one with nature' and finding deeper meaning within the act of surfing. Recently I listened to a podcast where some surfers were claiming that they remained childlike and curious purely because they were surfers.
To me this is all bullshit! Yes, surfing is fantastic and fun and physically satisfying. But to claim it somehow also rewards with elevated consciousness and superior awareness is bonkers. Why can't riding a bike or playing a round of golf* make us appreciate nature and our place in it? Why would surfing be exclusively the only activity to exercise both mind and body?
I surf because it's fun. I live near the coast and I've done it since I was a teenager. Yes, it often helps me switch off from work and reduce the daily noise & I enjoy the challenge and exhilaration of being in the sea. But I honestly doubt that it makes me a better person. In fact it probably does the opposite. Surfing involves way too much ego and selfishness to encourage spiritual development.
If I really want to do something that helps my physical and mental health I go for a run. It's incredibly simple - the only essential equipment is a pair of trainers (don't even have to be expensive). Some shorts and a t-shirt will complete the set-up. Step out of the house, and head off.
Very soon I strike a rhythm, one foot in front of the other. A regular pace and quite quickly my mind quietens. I'm not competing with anybody for this space. I'm certainly not trying to impress anyone with my steady plodding.
During a year of semi-regular runs I noticed that random thoughts would click into place and ideas form and solidify with ease. This was a revelation to me. Somehow the act of tuning out and following the repetitive pattern of my feet on the ground actually cleared my head.
To me this is meditation. And I'll go so far as to say that a quiet run can be a lot more soulful than trying to catch a wave.
*I personally have no interest or desire to play golf, but can easily imagine that it has massive benefits for those that enjoy it.
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