DON'T GO...

I went for a surf yesterday.

First time for over a month, cuz I've been landlocked with an injury.

Knee to waist-high waves, sunny and no wind. Perfect for a few summer dribblers.

It was busy, one of the reasons I tend not to go in the middle of the day. But the tide was on the push and the weak swell needed all the help it could get so I figured why not?

Someone dropped-in on me every other wave. And on those other waves if it wasn't a drop-in I was facing someone paddling out right in front of me on the open wave side.

I know it's summer, there are tons of beginners on holiday and on an inconsequential wave it's to be expected. But it is really annoying and also a bit baffling. 

I'm pretty sure that 99% of the people I encountered in the surf yesterday would have driven to the beach. Presumably they didn't pull out of junctions in front of oncoming cars and went the correct way through roundabouts.. (Kids & teenagers tend not to drop in, they are generally much more respectful and very aware of what's going on around them when they're in the water.) Therefore we can assume these adult learners aren't total idiots as they made it to the beach in one piece, so why does all their common sense dissipate when they get on a surfboard?

I'm not a fan of rules per se, but surf etiquette is just basic common sense. Whether we call them rules, or guidelines, or protocols or whatever.. There are only a few 'rules' you need to know and follow.

1. Don't drop in!

The surfer closest to the peak always has right of way. 

If you don't know where the peak is - (it's the first breaking part of the wave) think of it as the surfer with the longer potential ride has priority for the wave. 

If that is still unclear - Just look to the peak, if someone else is paddling for this wave and they are closer to the peak than you - they have right of way. 

If 'looking at the peak' is too complicated, try 'checking your mirrors' ie; simply check behind you to see if there is someone already on the wave who caught it before you and then back off and get out of their way.

2. Take your lumps

Paddling out - it is your responsibility to not get in the way.

Ideally - when you paddle out to the line up, don't paddle straight through the waves where people are surfing, paddle out where people are NOT surfing.

However at beach breaks this isn't always possible, but time it right and you can usually keep out of the path of oncoming surfers. But inevitably you will find yourself right in the zone where a surfer is already up and riding. 

The rule here is simple - when a surfer is on a wave you must go behind them NOT in front of them. The temptation is to go in front because that looks like the easier route, the wave may not have broken yet and the water is smoother. But don't do it! You must not go in front of the surfer already riding on the wave. You should go behind the surfer and into the whitewater if necessary where it is rougher and may not be so easygoing. Basically, you gotta take your lumps.

3. Don't ditch your board

This really is just common sense and basic awareness

It's very tempting to throw your board behind you if a wave is breaking that you can't paddle through. But this is totally irresponsible and selfish - you no longer have control of your board and whilst you may have got yourself out of harm's way there is a good chance you could have sent that loose board flying straight at somebody else. Hold onto it!

- - -

There are some other 'rules' about snaking and right of way and general etiquette in the line up, but in my opinion these three above are the fundamentals and should be taught by the surf schools alongside whatever else they teach beginners trying to catch their first waves.

We all make mistakes - at some point everyone drops in on a wave. But being aware of these basic common courtesies in the surf creates a much better atmosphere and keeps surfing fun for everyone.