SORRY

8.6 Diamond Tail, wide, low rockered glider.

The first law of new-board-stokage states that the surf will be shite for the first weekend after taking delivery...

VERTIGO

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SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT

One of the most stylish surfers ever, produced a simple yet profound book.
Gerry Lopez is a genuine legend, yet with this book he also reveals himself to be very down-to-earth with a clear and simple approach to life that he says comes from his years of surfing experience.
The book is in essence a chronological series of stories, that as well as being autobiographical, also share Lopez’s philosophies and outlook neatly presented through his intriguing surf anecdotes.
And if there’s anyone on the planet that’s going to have a lot of interesting stories to tell it’s gonna be Gerry Lopez!
A simple pleasure…

ICONIC SURFSPOTS

Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco

The first in an occasional series of fantasy surf destinations around the globe where I've always wanted to paddle out and try and catch a few.

photo courtesy richbrenner

GUEST KALLER

Cealan, aged 9

BLUE VIEW

It's the last Friday before the clocks go back - one more chance for an end-of-the-working-week tipple at my favourite venue with a sunset view.

TXT-FACE

Three blockheads

I never use smileys or do winks etc with brackets and semi-colons in email, but maybe I'll start doing these little portraits instead...

Six lines of punctuation

BELIEVE

Just a dream I had last night...

SOFTLY SOFTLY

Porthtowan, 17th October

Last Saturday delivered a small, sweet swell. Hardly a breath of wind, long lulls and occasional 2ft sets under sunny blue skies.

SURFREADERS

I really like surfing and I really like reading - and you can't start doing either too early...

UNAMBIGUOUS

"going in?" "yeah, see you out there..."

"getting out?" "yeah, I'll catch one in..."

I love ambiguity, especially in surfing, for example:
When you're first getting in, you're also paddling out and then when it's time to be getting out, you're trying to get the last one in...

THE ARTFUL DODGA

Rodga Harvey, tailblock edger in 1978

Had a brief but fun sk8 sesh with Rodga Harvey on Saturday, he's been ripping for three decades, that's right people, skateboarding really well for over 30 years!

Rodga in 2009, still going strong!

Spex was also there (a legend in his own right)

Spex, Planet Rock ollie, mid 80s

JOHN PEEL

"This one starts a bit quietly"

John Peel will be celebrated in various ways at various places at various times this weekend - surely there should be an official John Peel Day.

DOGS

"Great view from up here"

We don't have a cat on a hot tin roof in this part of the world - we have a couple of collies near the chimney.

STICKY

Bring back stickers!

When I used to spend all my time skateboarding, stickers were a small but fun part of the whole scene. Everybody had 'em, companies produced them in abundance and they were usually cool designs too. We'd slap 'em everywhere, not just on our decks, but on car windows, ramps, fridges etc, etc. I always liked the little ones, they were particularly good for covert slappage.

They became almost a form of tagging; I can remember being stranded at Gordano services while hitch-hiking on the M5 and feeling heartened by the sight of Thrasher and Kryptonics stickers on the road side sign.

I uncovered an old cache of stickers in the attic last night. Somewhere in there are; Blender's Coffee Break, Zorlac - SUAS, Blockhead - Nothing is Cool, Gator, Bod, Lance, Jim Philips - Screaming Hand and I particularly like the Steve Claar rabbit.

Click pic for a closer look

COMING SOON

The shape of things to come

Something's cooking in Jolly Roger's shack…

NEW OLDIE

Kool Kar

My bro-in-law stopped by for a visit this weekend on his way back to Ireland with his new wheels, a 1965 Volvo Amazon. What a beauty!

SCENE IN THE DISTANCE

Looking south from Porthtowan to St Ives with Godrevy lighthouse on the horizon.

Clicky piccy to go large…