The song remains the same - R in a timeless moment |
It's easy to believe that everything about surfing has changed beyond all recognition in the last 20 years.
Wetsuits are now as flexible as a t-shirt yet warmer than a duvet. Internet forecasts and webcams beamed direct to your i-phone. Surf schools on virtually every beach - all year round. Hordes of people in the water, crowding the breaks, not knowing what they're doing, clogging up the car parks and local roads. Secret spots gone forever. Mainstream companys jumping onto the surfing bandwagon. Lifeguards trying to insist leashes become mandatory. Airlines charging more to carry the boards than the passengers. The list is endless.
But there are some things that stay the same. When you manage to get a few free hours to go and surf, paddling out to catch a few, nothing else seems to matter. Once in the sea it's timeless; just you, on your board, amongst the waves. And that will never change.