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| ... with something again and again? |
For various reasons I've missed a lot of the good run of swell we had recently - but I managed to get in for a late one last night. It was fairly slack and only 2ft on the sets, but I paddled down the beach and found a little bank that was peeling and surfed until the sun went down.
Fell in love with surfing yet again...
Me too, feels so good paddling round with a big smile on your face!
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