Thursday 28 April 2011

EVER FALLEN IN LOVE



... with something again and again?

For various reasons I've missed a lot of the good run of swell we had recently - but I managed to get in for a late one last night. It was fairly slack and only 2ft on the sets, but I paddled down the beach and found a little bank that was peeling and surfed until the sun went down.

Fell in love with surfing yet again...

1 comment:

  1. Me too, feels so good paddling round with a big smile on your face!

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