HANDWRITTEN

I can't resist a handwritten sign - just a shame so many of them are prohibitive, I guess that's the whole point. I'll try and find some more positive ones...

TERRY'S DIARY

Every now and then I treat myself to the perfect visual cacophony that is Terry Richardson's Diary - so good!

THE LOST KEYS

Little did we know that an hour later we would be on our knees searching for lost keys.

Another beautiful evening last night here in Kernow. BBQ for tea on the beach, a splash in the sea and a lush sunset.
Rounding off a perfect evening by returning to the car, loading everything in and then bizarrely losing the keys and spending an hour in rapidly fading light searching fruitlessly for them...

If anyone finds a set of keys at Gwithian give me a shout.

COAST PATH

Took a summer solstice walk along the coast path last night. Twas a beautiful, warm, sunny evening...

Calm seas.

Watch out.

Came across this slow-worm, which is not a worm or a snake but a legless lizard.

Then on the way back noticed a little pulse of fresh swell sliding through the glass.

HATTITUDE!

It's scorchio - don't forget your sun hat.

SLACK

Written & Directed by Richard Linklater.

"I got less important things to do" - One of my fave quotes comes from this film. What a movie! Released in 1991, based around a single day in Austin, Texas the narrative follows the seemingly random connections made by a cast of social outcasts and misfits. Coincided perfectly with Generation X and made a v big impression on me. Be interesting to see how Richard Linklater would handle a surf film...

RB MEETS M2

Cool cover.

Just received a copy of this album in the digital mail this morning - I loves it.

Thanx Brother D.

STOP MOTION

Plastic tubes.

Over seven minutes long, and probably took at least seven months to make! Worth a look...

WOW!

Beautiful colours, beautiful glassy barrel, and it's a right too!

To see more visit Chris Burkard.

E.G.O.S

I love the sound of breaking glass.

Aiming for a backside cover-up.

E.G.O.S = (Evening glass-off session)

DO THE GODS PLAY NOUGHTS & CROSSES?

Wow! What an amazing run of weather; sun, warmth & the bluest skies... and a few waves too!

CLIFFS

Last Thursday night was good!

Real good!

STRANDED

Local neglects to check tide-tables before going for morning stroll on beach.

...

HISTORY LESSON - PART II

Front pump.

Just been given these old snaps of the much younger me skating the bowl at Playing Place. This was in the days before Patrick Best and Andrew Garner built the infamous extension, so I'm guessing it's either 77 or 78. On a Dogown Red Dog - Jim Muir, looks like Trackers, Green Kryps and a home-made tail saver.

Front punt.

Photos courtesy: Andrew Garner

PANO

I can see my house from up here. Clicky pic to go bigger

IT'S A NUM3ER5 GAME

Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!

What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...

Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.

Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.

Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.

Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.

Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.

One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in.
Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.

Based on a true story.

BLUE & YELLOW

David Hockney put in plenty of hours studying water.

So as the UK political landscape changes colour to blue with a splash of yellow...

(At least it gives me an excuse to admire Hockney's view of a Californian swimming pool painted in 1967)

NO HANDER!

Experiencing one of the first thrills of living dangerously...

INTERVIEW - CHRIS HINES

Chris Hines with his trusty 7'2. Photo: Andy Hughes

Journalist, campaigner, environmentalist, media presenter, motivational speaker, inspirational thinker and of-course, last but definitely not least, surfer. Chris's love affair with the sea has taken him from being more than just a participant to dedicating his life to making not only the ocean, but the environment as a whole something we can all enjoy for many generations to come.

When did you become aware of surfing?

My folks first took me to Widemouth when I was a couple of months old. Earliest memories are from when I was about 4/5 and I had my own wooden bellyboard by age 6! First proper board aged 12. There was a great surfing book in Tavistock School library and I used to always read it in library session!

Can you remember catching your first green wave?

Think my first green wave was during an epic 5 hour session when I was 13 at Sennen. Just pushing out and catching small inside waves and one suddenly reformed...

I know you try and get in the water as much as possible, just what exactly is it that keeps you coming back for more?

Being in the water, one decent wave and it's been a good session. That interaction with natural energy and the environment. Being away from the pressure of normal life. Importantly, every day has something and even if it's not great surf then remember that you could be a member of the Bosnian surf team at which point 2 ft onshore mush would be the best day of the decade!

Going for a backside cover up! Photo: Andy Hughes

APRES SURF COFFEE

Post-surf coffee anyone?

The C-Bay crew know how to do it!

WOOLNUTS

Ewe tube...

JJ'OLLIE

No one did f/s ollies like JJ.

A Jason Jesse frontside ollie is just beautiful. The style, the power, the commitment - all totally evident.

In his very first appearance as a professional in a vert contest he found himself going head to head against Gator, who at the time was a well established pro, very consistent and always hard to beat. During their heat Gator had a couple of uncharacteristic falls leaving the door wide open for JJ to easily advance to a possible top place finish in his debut. All he had to do was stay on, complete his run and he was guaranteed to win the heat...

But no such thing as playing safe for Jason Jessee, he dropped in and went full bore for a head high air to fakie and slammed! Gator won the heat.

Afterwards JJ shrugged it off saying "I don't care, I'm going for a surf."

NEW FACE

Welcome Nellie, new member of the family.

TELL ME WHY?

I asked all the West Country based bloggers in my list one question - WHY DO YOU BLOG?

Here, in no particular order, are their answers...

"Because I secretly love shouting 'look at me I'm great!' :-)"
CP Adventures in Trim

"I've always seen websites as constrained by branding and marketing objectives whereas blogs allow a true personality to shine through. Blogging has been the easiest way to share my passion for alternative post modern surfboard design with like minded souls… I don't have to push myself out there, I just share stuff as it happens and people who are interested find it, and have regular updates on everything from my latest bonzer designs to who I snogged on the beach at Penhale between surfs in 1981… There are no rules, just expression and I find that really appealing…"
Tim Just Bonzers

"It is quite simple really. I started back in 2004 with the Alma Pura blog while living in Brazil to try and show the more alternative, and simple side of surfing. Then did the Royal blog just for my boards. I found that it was silly and time consuming to have 2 blogs, so dropped the AP one and now just use the Royal blog.
My main interest is using it to showcase people/things that may not be out there yet, be they friends of mine or just interesting folk. Of course it also allows me to display my own boards, but I intend on that being a way to show that the UK has some great and current designers/board builders and that we aren't just following US trends, but can innovate on our own. Plus, the UK experience is unlike anywhere I have lived before, in terms of climate, countryside and culture.
Other than that, I guess I just need to find another hobby to keep me busy..."
Rob Lion Royal

DAYS OF DRY

I actually can't remember the last time it rained.

TRAIL

They're back.

BLU PERRAN CLASSIC

If you are thinking of going along to the Bathseba & Watering Hole Classic this weekend - don't! It's been postponed due to low-flying volcanic ash... (lack of swell actually!)

New dates are 8-9th May instead.

AFFIRMATIVE

Simple truth.

I like his style, both in and out of the water...

NORTH CLIFFS

Betwixt Deadmans Cove and Samphire Island.

AMBIGUITY

Make it - don't fake it.

SOUNDTRACK

Don't you forget.

It's my life
It never ends

THE REPUBLIC OF ME

... and this is my flag.

CRANTOCK

We spent hours upon hours skating in this barn. Originally it housed a 9ft vert ramp, one of only a few indoor halfpipes at the time. Although a private ramp, skaters from all over the UK would somehow find their way along the winding Cornish lanes, pad up, drop in and roll to the sounds pumping out from Dave's mighty boombox.

Evenings spent in the Bowgie, sleeping bags on the platforms, fresh gaffer tape and stinky pads donned again the next day for yet another session. Lots of tail slaps, lots of body slams - good times indeed.

Downsized to a 5ft mini a few years later.

Photo courtesy of Chris Fowler

PT

Lookin' fine in the Spring sunshine.

PAVEMENT

Slanted and Enchanted.

Crooked Rain, Crooked Rain.

Brighten the Corners.

I'm having a Pavement day...